Perched on the Manchester plateau 2000 feet above sea-level, Mandeville
is unlike other rural Jamaican towns: it is cool, it is clean, and there
are no slums. Thanks to energetic promotion by the Central and South Coast
Tourism Organization, the town is a magnet for discerning visitors and an
excellent base for exploring the central hills and the south coast.
The parish of Manchester was created in 1814 by the then governor, the
Duke of Manchester. The parish capital, founded in 1816, was named after
his eldest son, Viscount Mandeville, and was one of four hill stations for
the Army. Once a haven for English gentlefolk who deemed it the closest
thing to home, it was a prim and rather static place until the advent of
the bauxite industry in the 1950s. Overnight Mandeville became a roistering
boom town, began to grow and flourish and has continued to do so ever since.
As a market centre for farmers, a dormitory town for two large alumina companies
and the first choice of returning retired Jamaicans, the town enjoys a relatively
stable economic base and offers the pleasures of rural life with the convenience
of a mini-city.
The largest of 12 shopping plazas is the Manchester Shopping Centre on
Caledonia Road; there are cinemas and discos, several first-class restaurants,
a large public library, two hotels, several guests houses and a golf club.
Number of schools and colleges include: Manchester High School, Bishop Gibson
High School, DeCarteret College, Belair, St Joseph's Academy, The Church
Teachers Training College and the West Indies College.
In Mandevilleís benign climate both temperate and tropical plants
flourish: agapanthus lilies and sweet peas beside hibiscus and bougainvillea,
robust vanda orchids beneath peach and lychee trees, begonias and nasturtiums
growing wild on the banksides. Mandeville has one of the oldest Horticultural
Societies in the world and is famous for its annual flower show and splendid
private gardens some of which can be toured by appointment.
PLACES OF SPECIAL INTEREST
KIRKVINE WORKS
Alumina Jamaica, a subsidiary of the Alumina Company of Canada Ltd, (ALCAN),
was the first aluminium company to begin operations in Jamaica. It acquired
its bauxite reserves in the 1940s, began construction of its Kirkvine plant
near Mandeville and its shipping facility at Port Esquivel near Old Harbour
in late 1950, started mining in 1952 and shipped its first cargo of alumina
in January 1953. Subsequently, Kirkvine was expanded and another plant built
at Ewarton to process the large deposits of bauxite acquired in St Ann.
Ore is mined in open pits using dragline excavators and front-end loaders,
then transported by dump trucks and cable belt conveyor (at Ewarton) or
aerial ropeway (at Kirkvine) to the plants. A limestone quarry at Kirkvine
supplies the raw material for the burnt lime used in transforming bauxite
into year alumina. Alcanís own rolling stock transports alumina via
the Jamaica Railway tracks to their shipping facilities at Port Esquivel
in Clarendon.
Only a small portion of the land bought by the company is used for mining
at any one time. To utilize the rest of their holdings Alcanís agricultural
department developed a model livestock (beef and dairy cattle) and citrus
operation on 8,000 acres. They also supervise 4,600 tenant farmers on another
23,000 acres. In 1978 a joint venture agreement with the government of Jamaica
transformed Alcan Jamaica into Jamalcan with the government company, Jamaica
Bauxite Mining Ltd, acquiring 7% of Alcanís mining and refining assets
and all bauxite lands. Alcan Jamaica retains the management of Jamalcan.
Alcan has proved to be the most dependable of the bauxite/alumina companies
operating in Jamaica. It has never closed, and was first to appoint a Jamaican
as Chief Executive. The current General Manager is Dr Keith Panton. At the
bottom of Shooters Hill, as you approach Mandeville from the north, the
first thing you see is the Kirkvine factory. A large mined out area and
the red mud lake are visible to the R as you begin the climb via Kendal
to Mandeville. Alcanís corporate office flanks the golf course on
Brumalia Road. Their staff Sports club in the residential area of Ingleside
offers badminton, swimming pool and gymnasium. Use of these facilities can
be arranged by a member. Tours of the factory by appointment.
ALPART
As you leave Mandeville at Spur Tree, you will pass Alpartís corporate
offices and see their Nain factory on the plain below. Alpart was originally
a partnership between Kaiser Bauxite, Anaconda and Reynolds who during the
1960s pooled technology and land assets and invested US$200 million in a
state of the art plant which began operations in 1969, but became a cost
nightmare when oil prices skyrocketed during the 1970s. Anaconda sold out
to the other two partners and by 1985 Alpart had closed. Subsequently Reynolds
sold out to Kaiser and Norsk Hydro and in 1990 the plant re-opened under
Kaiserís management.
A 9 mile cable belt conveyor built in the early 1980s allows Alpart to
mine high quality ore on the Manchester plateau. The alumina is transported
by private railway from the factory at Nain to Port Kaiser near Alligator
Pond; a port that was built by Kaiser and originally used to export bauxite.
Like other bauxite/alumina companies Alpart has an extensive land rehabilitation
and agricultural program, run by Alpart Farms, and is also involved in community
work. Perhaps their greatest gift to the area is water. St Elizabeth is
a notoriously dry parish and Alpart provided water free from their wells
at Nain to surrounding districts. However, red mud disposal has created
problems. Before Alpart closed in 1985, U.W.I. scientists had documented
the fact that the water table at Pepper was being polluted by seepage from
the Alpart mudlake. The condition of the aquifer since the plant re-opened
is unclear. Tours can be arranged by appointment.
MANCHESTER CLUB
The oldest country club in the island has seen major changes since its
Golf and Tennis weeks were the most eagerly awaited social events of the
year. The old clubhouse has been sold to Scotia Bank Jamaica to be the site
of its computer centre. A new clubhouse complete with tennis courts is on
the other side of the challenging golf course, the oldest in the Western
hemisphere. Admission can be arranged through your hotel.
WEST INDIES COLLEGE
This Seventh Day Adventist complex offering education from primary to
tertiary level enforces a strict code of conduct, a vegetarian diet, and
emphasizes the dignity of manual labour by requiring all students to complete
a number of hours in the College bakery, printery, workshops or farm before
graduation.
CHARLTON MANSION
Mr Cecil C. Charlton is a retired politician, self-made millionaire (Charles-Off
betting shops), farmer and philanthropist whose palatial octagonal home,
Huntingdon Summit, is open to the public by appointment. Charlton served
as Mayor of Mandeville for over 20 years and to some people will always
be Mayor Charlton. The house crowns a hill on the eastern edge of town,
the first of a growing number of palatial Mandeville residences.
MARSHALLS PEN
An eighteenth century great house set in a delightful garden on a 300
acre cattle property. Once a farm house and coffee factory owned by the
Earl of Balcarres, Governor of Jamaica 1795 to 1801, it has been continuously
occupied ever since and is filled with antiques, paintings and curios, each
item with its own fascinating story which the owners Mr Arthur Sutton and
Mr and Mrs Robert Sutton will relate to you. Tours can be arranged through
Countrystyle Ltd. Birdwatching and hiking are also available here. Robert
Sutton, an ornithologist and his wife Anne, an environmental scientist,
are both extremely knowledgeable about the island's wildlife and ecology.
Accommodation is also available by arrangement.
ROXBOROUGH
The birthplace of Jamaican National Hero, the Rt. Excellent Norman Manley,
founder of the People's National Party and Premier 1955-1962. The site is
maintained by the Jamaica National Heritage Trust. The house was destroyed
by fire, leaving only the barbeques used for drying pimento grains and a
terraced garden. There is a stunning view over the plains of Clarendon.
Manley's older cousin and future political rival Alexander Bustamante worked
on the farm here for a short time before leaving for a life of adventure
in Cuba, Spain and the U.S. In later years Manley remembered him as a skilled
horseman.
Manley, a British trained barrister, was a brilliant advocate. A somewhat
austere person, lacking the charisma of his cousin Busta, Norman Manley
possessed an ironic sense of humour and in his younger days was an outstanding
athlete. His sophistication and singleminded pursuit of political independence
made him the hero of the emerging middle class. He married his English born
cousin Edna, an artist in her own right. The couple lived at Drumblair (then
a suburb of the city) and attracted a circle of Jamaican artists, writers
and scholars. The Drumblair Set has had a profound impact on politics and
art for almost three decades. Manley's younger son Michael graduated from
Trade Union leader to succeed his father as President of the PNP and twice
Prime Minister of Jamaica. An official function marking the national hero's
birthday is held here every.
THINGS TO DO
HIKING AND HORSEBACK RIDING: at Perth Great
House, a Georgian mansion built in 1760 and owned by John Nightingale's
family for over 100 years. Phone (809) 962-2822.
CUSTOM BUILT ECO TOURS: When he is not too
busy planning and lobbying for alternative energy projects for rural districts,
Tony Goffe will plan and conduct eco-tours to cater to special interests,
be it fossiling for agates, hunting for orchids or exploring the source
of rivers. Phone (809) 962-2149.
MRS STEPHENSON'S GARDEN: Reputed to be one
of the finest in the island. Tours, conducted by the horticulturist herself,
can be arranged.
FACTORY TOURS: The High Mountain Coffee and
Chocolate Factory at Williamsfield, the Pickapepper Sauce Factory at Shooters
Hill and the Bammy Factory in Mandeville can all be toured by appointment.
COUNTRYSTYLE TOURS: This local company, based
at Astra Hotel and owned by Mandeville's tourism dynamo Diana MacIntyre-Pike,
can introduce you to all the above. They also have listings of accommodation
options from luxurious villas with maids and butler to modest bed and breakfast
rooms.
Their latest project Village Tourism provides an authentic introduction
to the life of a rural Jamaican village using trained community guides the
local school teacher, postmistress, pastor or shopkeeper, etc. and allows
you to attend or participate in community events like church harvests, school
fairs, independence celebrations, etc.
PLACES TO STAY
MANDEVILLE HOTEL just off the town square
in a pleasant garden: a small hotel, with pool, restaurant and bar. It is
owner-managed by the McIntyre family and noted for good food and service.
Prior to 1875, the site was the Officers Quarters and Mess of the incumbent
British regiment. This was converted into the Waverly Hotel, then the Brooks
Hotel and became the Mandeville Hotel in 1912. Very popular with locals
for over 100 years.
ASTRA is a Country Inn, Tourism information
centre and home away from home marketed by Diana McIntyre-Pike, (daughter
of the owners of The Mandeville). Comfortable rooms, good food and Jamaican
hospitality.
GOLF VIEW INN: New,
comfortable rooms overlooking the Golf Course, owned by Mr and Mrs James,
operators of Olde Wharf Hotel in Treasure Beach.
CALEDONIA GUEST HOUSE:
Refurbished great house on a hill off Caledonia Avenue. Good View of Mandeville.
Operated in association with Caribic Tours.
RESTAURANTS: Popular
restaurants include The Feeding Tree (Chinese cuisine) on Manchester Road,
Bamboo Village (Chinese) on Ward Avenue, The Den (Jamaican Cooking) on Caledonia,
Snappers (for sea food) on Manchester Road and International Chinese Restaurant
on Manchester Road.
TOURS
DI'S WHIRL AROUND MANDEVILLE
Diana MacIntyre-Pike, manager of Astra is unique among Jamaican hoteliers
in that she urges her guests to travel around and experience the real Jamaica.
Her Mandeville Town Tour - on the house for Astra guests - takes the following
route: from Astra on Ward Avenue to Greenvale Road and then to Manchester
High School; turn R up Perth Road and R again up Bloomfield hill to the
former Bloomfield Guest house, once the site of Bill Laurie's popular Steak
House, it recently changed hands. But whatever it becomes, the crest of
the hill is still the best place to get a bird's eye view of the town centre.
From here through Grove Road to Newleigh Road and past Bishopís
High School for girls, an Anglican institution now government funded, on
the site of the old Newleigh hotel. On to DeCarteret School, a crumbling
Victorian mansion, once the King Edward Hotel and now resembling more than
ever the horror house in Hitchcock's Psycho. DC, founded over a century
ago as an exclusive Anglican boy's school is now government aided and co-educational.
Turn R along DeCarteret Road and L into Godfrey Lands, a pastoral residential
subdividsion. A short excursion along the Newport road reveals in the distance
Mayor Charlton's mansion, (see above) and on the hill ahead and R the
West Indies College (see above); visitors welcome at both. A sign points
the way to Roxborough, birthplace of Norman Washington Manley (see above).
Back into town along Manchester Road you pass R a JDF camp and then L St.
Joseph's Academy, a Catholic school now government aided, and L St. Paul
of the Cross Catholic Church. Further on L is the Church Teacher's Training
College once the site of the Manchester Hotel, then on your R the Methodist
Church. Willogate Plaza on your L has a variety of shops.
Next stop the square where there is one way traffic clockwise around
The Green now renamed Cecil Charlton Park after the ebullient former Mayor.
Here you may meet Shut, one of several official greeters coached by Countrystyle
Ltd. Another of the friendly people you may meet as you stroll on the Green
is Denis Roberts, a photographer who has operated an open-air studio here
for nearly 15 years. The Georgian Courthouse, north of the Green is usually
swarming with litigants. It faces, across the Green, the market (busiest
on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays) and St Mark's Parish Church. Just
east of the Green on Hotel St is the Mandeville Hotel, probably the oldest
in the island and dating from the late 1800s when everybody who was anybody
tried to spend the summer there.
Manchester road leads north and downhill past the Mayor's parlour and
offices of the Parish Council, the Library, and two hospitals.Tucked behind
them is the SWA Craft Centre sponsored by the Women's Club of Mandeville
where girls learn and practice home economics skills producing crochet,
embroidery, cloth dolls and pastries for sale. At the junction with Caledonia
road turn L for Manchester Shopping Centre (just about everything you need
available here, including fast food), then R along New Green Road and
again into Ingleside with the Alcan Sports Club and executive residences
complete with fireplaces. (Yes, it does sometimes get cold enough to use
them.)
Or bear left and then right along Brumalia road passing right KLAS Radio
Station, then the entrance to the Manchester Golf Club and then the Alcan
Corporate offices, then past the Bible School, the undulating fairways of
the golf course and the playing fields of Brooks park venue for football
matches. You have come full circle to Astra, where you can always get more
detailed information on other interesting places like the following:
TOURS OUT OF MANDEVILLE
YS FALLS
Off the beaten track and approximately 24 miles or 30 minutes
from Mandeville via Santa Cruz and Lacovia, are a refreshing contrast to
crowded Dunns River. The owners do not advertise, do not accept large groups
and there is not even a sign on the highway. YS estate is located just beyond
Bamboo Avenue a short distance along an unpredictable country road. One
of the leading racehorse stud farms in the island, YS also produces beef
cattle and export papayas. The base for visiting the Falls is an extension
of what used to be a tiny crossroads rum shop. There are picnic tables,
bar, snack shop, grill, restrooms and a gift shop. You ride a tractor-drawn
jitney to the falls over a stream and through the pastures with grazing
cows and brood mares. The owners, the Browne family, are descended from
the Marquis of Sligo, the colourful (and colourblind) Governor of Jamaica
when slavery was abolished in 1834. The origin of the name YS is obscure.
It has been suggested that it derives from the Gaelic "wyess"
meaning winding which describes the course of the river.
Up at the falls you can relax on an emerald green lawn and just look,
or you can climb to the top beside them. The dramatic three-tiered waterfall
is most dramatic when the river is in spate and the brown water thunders
and foams, misting you with spray as you climb. In dry weather the postcard
pretty river sings a gentler song as it plunges and froths into green-blue
pools. Swimming is permitted and there are lifeguards on duty. A sign posted
at the base reports the condition of the river each day. Some of the flora
at the falls, like the Cartwheel plant are extremely rare.
APPLETON RUM TOUR
The Appleton Estate has been producing sugar and rum since 1749.
It is the largest of three sugar estates/factories owned by J. Wray and
Nephew, the others being New Yarmouth in Clarendon and Holland, adjacent
to Bamboo Avenue in St. Elizabeth. This billion dollar company began in
1825 as a popular Kingston rum shop. John Wray, owner of The Shakespeare
Tavern at Parade in Kingston, made his fortune blending and selling rum.
Just before his retirement in 1864 he took his fashionable nephew Colonel
Charles Ward into the business. Ward expanded the scope of the company,
acquiring sugar estates and import agencies. Today, J. Wray and Nephew is
one of the island's leading exporters and its core business remains the
production, blending and bottling of rum.
Appleton, located at the edge of the Cockpit Country where the Black
River meets the St. Elizabeth plain, produces 16000 tons of sugar and 10,000,000
litres of rum annually. This white rum is then blended and bottled in their
Kingston production plant.
The Rum Tour covers all aspects of production with an introductory video
presentation followed by a visit to the distillery. En route you will see
the 100 year old donkey driven cane mill and sample fresh cane juice, molasses,
wet sugar, high wine and finally Appleton Rum, considered by some connoisseurs
to be the finest in the world. Should you wish you can purchase all you
want, plus other Appleton products like Mad Annie and Rum Cream in the gift
shop which also features items made by St. Elizabeth craftsmen.